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| Picture 1, Two Team Haul |
There is several systems that can be used for different situations.
Two Team Haul
If two teams are available, a two team haul can be used. If the second team can get a rope relatively quick to the victim it would not be necessary for the first team to build an anchor. Meanwhile the second team approaches the edge and drops down a rope with a locking biner, the first team belays the victim in self arrest position. Remember to secure the edge with a backpack, ice axe or something else before lowering the rescue rope.
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| Picture 2, Droop Loop Raise |
Drop Loop Raise
Low friction system that moves the rope quickly.
It has minimal mechanical advantage so it suits a light victim or two or more rescuers available to haul.
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| Picture 3, Z Pulley |
Droop Loop with Z Pulley
This method is the most common when there is only one rescuer. It has greater mechanical advantage, but the increased friction and rope stretch reduces efficiency.
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| Picture 4, Z Pulley with added advantage |
Z Pulley with Added Advantage
The difference from drop loop to z pulley as you can see on picture 2 and 3, is the ratchet and another prussic. To add advantage to the system use another prussic as shown in picture 4. This system has such an high friction, rope stretch and slow raise, so its only used when previous systems can not create enough advantage to haul.
References:
Pavillard, J. et.al (1999). Techncal Handbook for Professional Mountain Guides. ACMG, Canmore, AB.
Haslene, S. (2008). Breboka - Håndbok i brevandring. DNT Fjellsport, Oslo.
