I want to dedicate this post to learn how to become a more efficient climber.
Dan Hauge and Douglas Hunter(2006) have written that efficient movement when climbing is more important than raw muscle power. This may be pretty obvious, but a lot of people thinks that the only thing that holds them back from sending the last problem is strength. Efficient movement rests on balance, which is the center of gravity related to the base of support (Hauge & Hunter, 2006).
To develop the best hand or foot placement possible, it is important to maximize the contact area between the climber and the rock. By also adding the thumb to different holds, it can help the other fingers to endure longer (Hauge & Hunter, 2006). To do anything efficiently it has to go fast without error. Translated to climbing it means that you have to move both feet and hands precise and fast to their optimal position and continuously move upwards. A tip from Hauge and Hunter(2006) is to move slow and plan the moves ahead while constantly looking on both feet and hand placement. The thought is placing feet without a sound and "glueing" hands to the holds.
It takes a lot of practise to learn climbing techniques and doing them efficiently, but by consciously thinking about efficiency while climbing speeds progression. By adding tasks to the regular workout like precise and silent foot placements the technique will improve after a while. When mastering this task it is time to move to the next which could be moving faster or placing fingers precisely (Hauge & Hunter, 2006).
References:
Hauge, D. & Hunter, D. (2006). Klatretræning fra begynder til elite. Danske Klatreforbund, Brøndby, Danmark.
 |
| First day, ready to send some climbs. Photo: Andreas |
 |
| Climbing a nice route. Photo: Yngve Nordskag |
 |
| Espen sending it. Photo: Yngve Nordskag |
 |
| Main wall, looking from our lunch spot. Photo: Andreas |
