Hi!
I think my best post in therms of writing, is from the climbing course we had this autumn: http://andreasaspaascourseblog.blogspot.no/2012/09/climbing-course.html.
My best photos might be from the sea kayak and traditional boating trip to Solund: http://andreasaspaascourseblog.blogspot.no/2012/09/sea-kayak-and-traditional-boating-trip.html.
November 08, 2012
October 29, 2012
Climbingtrip to France
We took the flight down to Nice in mid october for some climbing and nature based tourism in the nearby areas. We staid there for a couple of weeks and enjoyed the combination of incredible climbing in the daytime, and french wine in the evenings.
I want to dedicate this post to learn how to become a more efficient climber.
Dan Hauge and Douglas Hunter(2006) have written that efficient movement when climbing is more important than raw muscle power. This may be pretty obvious, but a lot of people thinks that the only thing that holds them back from sending the last problem is strength. Efficient movement rests on balance, which is the center of gravity related to the base of support (Hauge & Hunter, 2006).
To develop the best hand or foot placement possible, it is important to maximize the contact area between the climber and the rock. By also adding the thumb to different holds, it can help the other fingers to endure longer (Hauge & Hunter, 2006). To do anything efficiently it has to go fast without error. Translated to climbing it means that you have to move both feet and hands precise and fast to their optimal position and continuously move upwards. A tip from Hauge and Hunter(2006) is to move slow and plan the moves ahead while constantly looking on both feet and hand placement. The thought is placing feet without a sound and "glueing" hands to the holds.
It takes a lot of practise to learn climbing techniques and doing them efficiently, but by consciously thinking about efficiency while climbing speeds progression. By adding tasks to the regular workout like precise and silent foot placements the technique will improve after a while. When mastering this task it is time to move to the next which could be moving faster or placing fingers precisely (Hauge & Hunter, 2006).
References:
Hauge, D. & Hunter, D. (2006). Klatretræning fra begynder til elite. Danske Klatreforbund, Brøndby, Danmark.
I want to dedicate this post to learn how to become a more efficient climber.
Dan Hauge and Douglas Hunter(2006) have written that efficient movement when climbing is more important than raw muscle power. This may be pretty obvious, but a lot of people thinks that the only thing that holds them back from sending the last problem is strength. Efficient movement rests on balance, which is the center of gravity related to the base of support (Hauge & Hunter, 2006).
To develop the best hand or foot placement possible, it is important to maximize the contact area between the climber and the rock. By also adding the thumb to different holds, it can help the other fingers to endure longer (Hauge & Hunter, 2006). To do anything efficiently it has to go fast without error. Translated to climbing it means that you have to move both feet and hands precise and fast to their optimal position and continuously move upwards. A tip from Hauge and Hunter(2006) is to move slow and plan the moves ahead while constantly looking on both feet and hand placement. The thought is placing feet without a sound and "glueing" hands to the holds.
It takes a lot of practise to learn climbing techniques and doing them efficiently, but by consciously thinking about efficiency while climbing speeds progression. By adding tasks to the regular workout like precise and silent foot placements the technique will improve after a while. When mastering this task it is time to move to the next which could be moving faster or placing fingers precisely (Hauge & Hunter, 2006).
References:
Hauge, D. & Hunter, D. (2006). Klatretræning fra begynder til elite. Danske Klatreforbund, Brøndby, Danmark.
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| First day, ready to send some climbs. Photo: Andreas |
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| Climbing a nice route. Photo: Yngve Nordskag |
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| Espen sending it. Photo: Yngve Nordskag |
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| Main wall, looking from our lunch spot. Photo: Andreas |
The Guide's Trip
It's the time of the year when the students get to go on their own trip without teachers, and this time a fellow classmate and I was had the responsibility. I want to use this post as a reminder for later by writing down all the different games we have been through so far.
Baby shark, mama shark, papa shark bapaba..
Pinne/kniv leken
penguin dansen
Baby shark, mama shark, papa shark bapaba..
Pinne/kniv leken
penguin dansen
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| Happiness around the campfire. Photo: Andreas |
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| Looking down on camp and the new snow in the back. Photo: Andreas |
September 20, 2012
Sea Kayak and Traditional Boating Trip
We went on the boat headed out to the islands of Solund the 10th of september. The course contained rowing and paddling for 4 days. I learned a couple things on the course that I might want to further develop on. Like my paddling skills that I cant really brag about having yet. The way of traveling by a kayak is amazingly beautiful. Combining that with the setting of Solund islands and you just got to love it. Anyways.. I want to use this blogpost as an opportunity to learn more about nature based tourism and their products.
Mehmet claims that there are three levels of a product in the nature based tourism industry. The main one is the core product which is what the tourist actually is buying. The actual product is what the tourist believe his buying. The last level is everything combined around the core product which is called the extended product. It increases the products total value (Mehmetoglu, 2007).
To create a successful product its important to assess the needs among the tourists. They all have different reasons for choosing a product. Some might want to relax while others want to strengthen their relationships with friends and be physically active. These wants and needs represent the core product. Its important to further develop and define these components to make the customer aware (Mehmetoglu, 2007).
The actual product represents what the customer have paid for that can be seen and touched. The core product affects the decision of choosing the product while the actual product comprehends the quality of what is being sold. The company works optimal when both products interact in a good way (Mehmetoglu, 2007).
The extended product is more or less the service given during the customer relationship. By doing a good job this can be used to emerge among the competitors (Mehmetoglu, 2007).
It depends on the situation if the core, actual or extended product determine whether or not the customer chooses your company. The core should be the predominant product, but at last it is the whole package that attracts most customers.
References:
Mehmetoglu, M. (2007). Naturbasert Turisme. Fagbokforlaget, Bergen.
The three Levels of a Product
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| The harbour at Little Færøy. Photo: Andreas |
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| Some goats on the island. Photo: Andreas |
The actual product represents what the customer have paid for that can be seen and touched. The core product affects the decision of choosing the product while the actual product comprehends the quality of what is being sold. The company works optimal when both products interact in a good way (Mehmetoglu, 2007).
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| An evening in the boathouse. Photo: Andreas |
It depends on the situation if the core, actual or extended product determine whether or not the customer chooses your company. The core should be the predominant product, but at last it is the whole package that attracts most customers.
References:
Mehmetoglu, M. (2007). Naturbasert Turisme. Fagbokforlaget, Bergen.
September 08, 2012
Climbing Course
We had a climbing course from the 27th to the 30th of August focusing on the basic skills. Knowing how to safely maneuver the crags, sport climbing methods and conveying these methods to others were key subjects this week. I want to use this blogpost to recall how to efficiently ascend a rope by prussics.
Colin, my instructor on a climbing course a few years ago showed me his best way of ascending a rope.
His method was using two long prussics as shown on the pictures. In this case we used two 5meter prussics. It's not hard to improvise with other equipment. Tie the first prussic ends into the harness with a figure eight. Do the same procedure with the lower prussic, but leave one of the ends for a foot loop (Moorhead, 2010).
When ascending you don't want to pull on the prussic because it can slip when loaded. A point to pull on can be made by tying a normal overhand knot beneath the prussic (Moorhead, 2010).
How efficient the rope ascending would be depends on the range you can move for every pull. The distance between the foot loop and lower prussic plus the distance between the harness and the higher prussic is crucial for speed.
The methods and whats best is pretty much individually. What matter is to practise so your ready when the situation occurs.
References:
Klassen, K. (1999). Technical Handbook for Professional Mountain Guides - Alpine, Rock, and Ski Guiding Techniques. ACMG, Canmore.
Moorhead, C. Personal announcement. 09. 13. 2010. Squamish.
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| Colin showing how. Photo: Andreas |
Ascending Ropes
If the rope has to be ascended and you don't got a couple ascenders in your rack, using two prussics would be an efficient alternative. It's also possible to use only one ascender and a ratchet. However the redundancy of two makes the system not only more secure, but also versatile. The length of slings varies from situations and size of person (Klassen, 1999).Colin, my instructor on a climbing course a few years ago showed me his best way of ascending a rope.
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| Colin ascending. Photo: Andreas |
When ascending you don't want to pull on the prussic because it can slip when loaded. A point to pull on can be made by tying a normal overhand knot beneath the prussic (Moorhead, 2010).
How efficient the rope ascending would be depends on the range you can move for every pull. The distance between the foot loop and lower prussic plus the distance between the harness and the higher prussic is crucial for speed.
The methods and whats best is pretty much individually. What matter is to practise so your ready when the situation occurs.
References:
Klassen, K. (1999). Technical Handbook for Professional Mountain Guides - Alpine, Rock, and Ski Guiding Techniques. ACMG, Canmore.
Moorhead, C. Personal announcement. 09. 13. 2010. Squamish.
June 01, 2012
Jostedalsbreen Glacier Trip
I had quite a few thoughts during the long days of glacier travel. One of them considering the "sun watch" we learned earlier, and my realization of remembering only few details. In therms of this happening, I will now explain how it works for future incidents of my short time memory decease.
In November we learned how to use a compass and the sun's position to locate the time of the day. Odd Lennart, one of our teachers, explained this winter that the sun would be 90 degrees at 6 in the morning. It will move 15 degrees for each hour. By noon the sun would be at 180 degrees directly south, and by midnight point directly to the north.
Sun Watch
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| Skiing on Jostedalen Glacier, Second day |
The Northern and Southern Hemisphere
If used in the southern hemisphere it's an important detail to remember that it's completely opposite compared to the northern hemisphere which means that noon will be directly north and midnight 180 degrees south.
This can be handy to keep track of the time when outdoors without a watch or interesting "fun facts" to teach students.
References:
Vikene, O. L. Personal announcement. 11. 07. 2011. Kaupanger.
References:
Vikene, O. L. Personal announcement. 11. 07. 2011. Kaupanger.
May 20, 2012
3 day Ski Touring in Hurrungane
It's a while since I last studied glacier rescue now. Feeling a bit rusty when we practised on course, I figured freshening up a bit with a short blogpost in the subject would not hurt.
Crevasse Rescue Systems
There is several systems that can be used for different situations.
Two Team Haul
If two teams are available, a two team haul can be used. If the second team can get a rope relatively quick to the victim it would not be necessary for the first team to build an anchor. Meanwhile the second team approaches the edge and drops down a rope with a locking biner, the first team belays the victim in self arrest position. Remember to secure the edge with a backpack, ice axe or something else before lowering the rescue rope.
Drop Loop Raise
Low friction system that moves the rope quickly.
It has minimal mechanical advantage so it suits a light victim or two or more rescuers available to haul.
Droop Loop with Z Pulley
This method is the most common when there is only one rescuer. It has greater mechanical advantage, but the increased friction and rope stretch reduces efficiency.
Z Pulley with Added Advantage
The difference from drop loop to z pulley as you can see on picture 2 and 3, is the ratchet and another prussic. To add advantage to the system use another prussic as shown in picture 4. This system has such an high friction, rope stretch and slow raise, so its only used when previous systems can not create enough advantage to haul.
References:
Pavillard, J. et.al (1999). Techncal Handbook for Professional Mountain Guides. ACMG, Canmore, AB.
Haslene, S. (2008). Breboka - Håndbok i brevandring. DNT Fjellsport, Oslo.
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| Picture 1, Two Team Haul |
There is several systems that can be used for different situations.
Two Team Haul
If two teams are available, a two team haul can be used. If the second team can get a rope relatively quick to the victim it would not be necessary for the first team to build an anchor. Meanwhile the second team approaches the edge and drops down a rope with a locking biner, the first team belays the victim in self arrest position. Remember to secure the edge with a backpack, ice axe or something else before lowering the rescue rope.
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| Picture 2, Droop Loop Raise |
Drop Loop Raise
Low friction system that moves the rope quickly.
It has minimal mechanical advantage so it suits a light victim or two or more rescuers available to haul.
 |
| Picture 3, Z Pulley |
Droop Loop with Z Pulley
This method is the most common when there is only one rescuer. It has greater mechanical advantage, but the increased friction and rope stretch reduces efficiency.
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| Picture 4, Z Pulley with added advantage |
Z Pulley with Added Advantage
The difference from drop loop to z pulley as you can see on picture 2 and 3, is the ratchet and another prussic. To add advantage to the system use another prussic as shown in picture 4. This system has such an high friction, rope stretch and slow raise, so its only used when previous systems can not create enough advantage to haul.
References:
Pavillard, J. et.al (1999). Techncal Handbook for Professional Mountain Guides. ACMG, Canmore, AB.
Haslene, S. (2008). Breboka - Håndbok i brevandring. DNT Fjellsport, Oslo.
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