Climbing Course

We had a climbing course from the 27th to the 30th of August focusing on the basic skills. Knowing how to safely maneuver the crags, sport climbing methods and conveying these methods to others were key subjects this week. I want to use this blogpost to recall how to efficiently ascend a rope by prussics.

Colin showing how. Photo: Andreas 

Ascending Ropes

If the rope has to be ascended and you don't got a couple ascenders in your rack,  using two prussics would be an efficient alternative. It's also possible to use only one ascender and a ratchet. However the redundancy of two makes the system not only more secure, but also versatile. The length of slings varies from situations and size of person (Klassen, 1999).

Colin, my instructor on a climbing course a few years ago showed me his best way of ascending a rope.  

Colin ascending. Photo: Andreas

His method was using two long prussics as shown on the pictures. In this case we used two 5meter prussics. It's not hard to improvise with other equipment. Tie the first prussic ends into the harness with a figure eight. Do the same procedure with the lower prussic, but leave one of the ends for a foot loop (Moorhead, 2010).

When ascending you don't want to pull on the prussic because it can slip when loaded. A point to pull on can be made by tying a normal overhand knot beneath the prussic (Moorhead, 2010).

How efficient the rope ascending would be depends on the range you can move for every pull. The distance between the foot loop and lower prussic plus the distance between the harness and the higher prussic is crucial for speed.

The methods and whats best is pretty much individually. What matter is to practise so your ready when the situation occurs.



References:

Klassen, K. (1999). Technical Handbook for Professional Mountain Guides - Alpine, Rock, and Ski Guiding Techniques. ACMG, Canmore.

Moorhead, C. Personal announcement. 09. 13. 2010. Squamish.